DeWalt DW734-XE Instruction Manual Page 6

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MINIMUM/MAXIMUM WIDTH/HEIGHT/DEPTH
NOTE: There is a certain area on the carriage of your planer that will
allow the 3.18mm (1/8”) depth of cut on material less than 152.4mm
(6”) wide. See Figure 12 for an approximate location of this area. Your
material must move under this section of the carriage or planer will not
take a 3.18mm (1/8”) depth of cut. If the material is wider than 6”, it
will not fit through this area with an 3.18m (1/8”) depth cut.
SNIPE
Snipe is a depression made when an unsupported end of your material
bends downward, causing the opposite end to lift up into the cutter
head. If you are planing material that is especially long, the use of
additional material support is recommended.
TO AVOID SNIPE
Feed the workpiece into the planer so it is level and remains flat against
the base at all times.
Keep long workpieces level throughout planing operation by receiving
or “catching” them from the rear of the planer.
WARNING: Do not place your body between the workpiece and a
stationary structure while the matertial is feeding out. Personal injury
and/or damage to the work piece may occur.
TWISTED, CUPPED AND BOWED WOOD
If both sides of your material are very rough or if the material is
cupped, bowed or twisted, the planer may not produce the desired
result. Ideally, you should have at least one level face/surface on your
material before you plane. Your thickness planer will work best with
material that has been run through a jointer to produce one flat surface.
If you do not have at least one flat surface or a jointer, see the the fol-
lowing recommendations.
TO PLANE TWISTED WOOD (FIG. 13)
WARNING: TWISTED WOOD MAY JAM YOUR THICKNESS
PLANER. IF A JAM OCCURS, TURN THE POWER OFF, DISCONNECT
THE POWER SUPPLY AND RAISE THE CARRIAGE TO RELEASE THE
MATERIAL FROM THE CUTTER HEAD.
To plane only slightly twisted material:
Plane both sides alternating from one to the other until the desired
thickness is reached.
TO PLANE CUPPED WOOD (FIG. 14)
To obtain the best possible results with cupped wood:
Rip the material down the middle and plane it as two separate pieces.
NOTE: Ripping the material reduces the severity of the cup and allows
the machine to deliver better results. More material will be removed
on cupped wood to achieve the desired thickness than on a normal
board.
If ripping the material is not an option:
Plane one side of the material until flat, then plane the opposite side
until flat (Fig. 15).
NOTE: Do not flip the board back and forth between each pass as
recommended by the general planing directions.
TO PLANE BOWED WOOD (FIG. 16)
The feed rollers and cutter head in your planer will push the bow out of
the material as it feeds. When the material exits the planer, the pressure
of the rollers and cutter head will release allowing the wood to spring
back into a bowed formation.
CHANGING THE PLANER KNIVES
WARNING: DISCONNECT THE PLANER FROM THE POWER
SOURCE BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO ACCESS OR CHANGE THE
KNIVES.
Your planer is equipped with a three-knife cutter head.
TO CHANGE PLANER KNIVES
1. Use the T-wrench to remove the tool tray. The cutter head
should now be exposed.
If the eight bolts in the knife clamp ARE NOT visible, use a piece
of scrap wood to carefully rotate the cutter head until the bolts are
accessible and the cutter head locking lever engages as shown in
Figure 21 (O). This will prevent further rotation of the cutter head
as you change each knife (Fig. 17).
If the bolts ARE visible, be sure that the cutter head locking lever is
engaged so the cutter head does not rotate while you are chang-
ing the knives. To do this, use a piece of scrap wood to attempt to
rotate the cutter head. The locking lever will click into place if it is
not already engaged.
WARNING: KEEP YOUR FINGERS AWAY FROM THE CUTTER
HEAD AT ALL TIMES. USE THE TOOL PROVIDED TO HANDLE THE
KNIVES.
2. Remove bolts from knife clamp.
3. Use the magnets on the top of the T-wrench to attract the knife
clamp and lift the knife off the cutter head (Fig. 18). One of the
knives should now be exposed.
4. Use the magnet on the top of the T-wrench to attract and han-
dle the knife. AVOID TOUCHING THE KNIFE WITH YOUR FINGERS.
The knives on your planer are sharpened on both edges.
If only one edge of the knife is worn:
1. Turn the knife around so that the sharp, unused edge hangs
over the edge of the cutter head where it will cut the material. Be
sure to set the oblong holes in the knife over the pins machined on
the cutter head (Fig. 19).
2. To reset the knife clamp, align the beveled edge of the knife
clamp with the cutting edge of the knife (Fig. 20). If these are not
aligned correctly, the clamp will not secure the knife properly.
3. Place the screws through the holes in the knife clamp and knife
into the cutter head.
4. Tighten the screws sufficiently.
To access and replace the other two knives:
1. Depress the cutter head lock lever (O) as shown in Figure 21.
2. Use the piece of scrap wood to carefully turn the cutter head
until it locks into place revealing another knife clamp and dull knife.
3. Repeat the procedure indicated above.
If the knives are dull on both edges:
1. Follow the same knife change procedure indicated above.
HOWEVER, discard the dull knives and install new ones onto the
cutter head.
2. Repeat the procedure for the remaining knives.
After installing or reversing the knives:
1. Replace the tool tray onto the unit.
2. Tighten the screws onto the tray.
NOTE: THE PLANER WILL NOT OPERATE IF THE TOOL TRAY IS NOT
INSTALLED CORRECTLY.
FIG. 12
FIG. 13
FIG. 14
TOP FLAT
BOTTOM FLAT
FIG. 15
FIG. 16
BOWED WOOD WILL BE FLATTENED BY
FEED ROLLERS AND CUTTER HEAD…
BUT BOW WILL RETURN AFTER
WOOD IS PLANED
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